Your water heater is likely the most vital portion of your homes plumbing program. A correctly maintained heater can last from ten to fifteen years or extra. But, a heater not properly maintained can fail in four to six years. The situation of the drinking water in your location and the location of the heater in your residence are out of your manage, but right maintenance of the heater and your plumbing program is vital to heater longevity and safety.
This report gives you a list of products to check for both tank variety and tankless water heaters. As you go by means of the methods in checking your heater, if you have the slightest doubt in your capacity, get a professional, licensed plumber involved! You are dealing with hot water, all-natural gas, and electrical energy!
Tank Type Water Heater Upkeep:
Vent (Gas Water Heaters Only)
The vent must be the same diameter as the draft diverter on the heater tank.
The vent really should go usually “up and out” the ceiling.
Where is passes by means of the exterior wall, the vent really should be double-walled.
Vent sections need to be screwed with each other with a minimum three screws per section.
Note: Negative vent pipe connections can fall apart and lead to carbon monoxide poisoning, the silent and deadly gas!
Temperature & Stress Relief Valve (T&P Valve)The T&P valve is created to protect against the heater from exploding if the water stress or temperature exceeds safe limits.
Pull up the deal with on the valve and water must flow out and stop when you let go of the manage.
water heater repair &P valve has a drain line that should really go down to about six” from the floor or be plumbed outdoors your home.
Note: Water leaking out of a T&P drain line can signal a bad T&P valve, higher water stress, or a malfunctioning thermal expansion device.
Water Pressure (All Water Heaters)
Water stress over 80 pounds per square inch (psi) can damage heaters and your piping. It can also damage plumbing appliances, toilets, and your fixtures.
Note: 1 giveaway that your have higher water pressure is when the T&P Valve on the heater starts opening and closing.
Outer Water Heater Metal Shell & Plumbing Fittings
Inspect the heater outer sheet metal shell for leaks or rusting.
Inspect the plumbing fittings on the heater for corrosion, rust, or water spotting.
Note: Rusty fittings or discolored shell is a telltale sign that a leak is present!
Temperature Control
Inspect the heater temperature manage dial to insure its set at the correct water temperature.
The perfect water temperature is 120° Fahrenheit.
Note: Anything above 120° Fahrenheit drastically increases scalding risk, energy use, and sediment construct-up in the bottom of the heater!
Combustion Chamber (Gas Water Heaters)
Turn the gas valve handle to “pilot position”.
Eliminate the outer access hatch or cover on the side of the heater.
Inspect the roof of the chamber for heavy rusting, water marking, or pitting.
Return the gas valve control back to the “on position”.
Note: Black soot in the combustion chamber implies drafting difficulties, combustion troubles, fume issues, and a fire hazard!
Pedestal Base (Gas Water Heaters)
Make positive the pedestal base the heater rests on is stable and supports the unit.
The standard pedestal will maintain the bottom of the heater at least 18″ off the floor.
Note: A newer water heater may perhaps have a “filtered combustion chamber” that is supposed to resolve the have to have for a pedestal. Check the owner’s manual for your heater.
Drain Valve
Open the drain valve to insure that mineral sediment, anode sludge, or rust has not clogged your heaters drain.
Drain Overflow Pan
If your heater is on the 2nd floor above living space it should really have a drain pan.
The drain pan should really be plumbed to the outdoors of your property.
Inspect the situation of the drain pan, fittings, and piping to the outside.
Corrosive Fumes (Gas Water Heaters & Tankless Water Heaters)
Water heaters draw air in for combustion and the high quality of the air is critical.
Corrosive liquids, ammonia, or acids stored close to a heater can lead to corrosive air.
Note: Corrosive air drawn into the burner can prematurely corrode the heater.
Internal Tank Corrosion and Rust-The internal tank of your heater is constructed of steel and glass lined to protect against rust. Sacrificial anode rods are installed in the tank to guard the glass lined internal steel tank from rust. Aluminum/Zinc or magnesium anode rods corrode more than time and get employed up by way of an electrolytic process.
Note: Replacing the anode rod can extend the life of the heater but, need to be done by a trained, professional service technician.
Sediment Build-up-Sediment is designed when difficult water is heated. The develop-up of sediment in the bottom of the tank can trigger the bottom to overheat and melt away the glass lining of the tank. It can drift into recirculating lines, jam open verify valves, and result in the recirculating pump to stick till it burns out. Sediment make-up on the bottom of gas water heaters encourages noisy operation. The noise is triggered by compact amounts of water below the sediment layer turning into steam bubbles, which then collapse violently.
Note: Sediment make-up can lower the power efficiency of the heater and void the warranty on some Residential Water Heaters!
Tankless Water Heater Upkeep:
Flushing-Most tankless water heater makers propose flushing the entire unit each and every 6 months to 1 year depending upon the water good quality. Reference your manufactures recommendation for flushing. Flushing the unit consistently removes any mineral deposits (typically calcium or lime) that may well have built up inside the boilers. Makers advise using a utility pump to circulate three or four gallons of vinegar or another low-grade acid for 45 minutes to clean out any deposits.
